19. Drive through Patea (2/3)

“A man is there all day punching skins and comes home and has no time for his wife and family. He goes off to the pub with his mates. We never saw our father until the weekend and that was the case for most people here.”

Dalvanius in the Taranaki Daily News, 18 August 2001

When I drove through Patea a few years ago I was sort of surprised by the fact that it actually existed.  The Patea Maori Club just seemed like a name for a pop group when I was 11, like Culture Club or Berlin, and I didn’t give the Club much thought in the many years between Poi E reaching number one in March 1984 and driving through Patea in the 00′s of this century.  Then, in a mostly boarded up, mostly empty one horse town, about halfway down Egmont Street, there were the unmistakable concrete arches of Turi’s canoe which feature so prominently in the Poi E video.  The rest of the town seemed unremarkable.  The sight of the huge falling down freezing works as you crossed the bridge, and then Turi’s canoe.

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If you go to the Wellington Central Library you can find a couple of short books released to coincide with Patea’s 75th and 100th anniversaries (1956 and 1981).  Both anniversaries are before the defining moment in modern Patea’s history: the 1982 closure of the Patea Freezing Works.  There is no book on Patea’s 125th anniversary.

Patea in 1956 was a different place.  The cover of the anniversary history shows a photo down the main drag towards what was, in 1956, called Mount Egmont.

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When you flick through either of these books you realise how much there was to Patea in the past.  The 75th Jubilee book is crammed full of advertisements from local businesses, and throughout the whole book there is a real sense of industry, small business and civic pride.  Just look at the diverse line up of gender and ethnicity in the council.  The sober suits and cheap haircuts can’t hide the satisfaction of these men in their thriving community.

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All the big banks were in town, with ads congratulating the town for having stood up for 75 years, and – in a land then without wine – even a big brewer got in on the act, trying to raise the tone a touch to match the occasion.

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Thrice.  Not a word you hear in many beer ads nowadays.  Perhaps after getting tipsy on some lovely glasses of D.B. the ladies could head down to Patea’s life line to Paris, Rome and London.

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In fact the ads in general put a heavy emphasis on the tone of the town:

ENTERPRISE MOTORS are enterprising enough to offer GOOD, HONEST AND PLEASANT SERVICE

Universal Motors – The complete up-to-date service… with civility

Ray’s Milk Bar – Call at Patea’s Leading Milk Bar for Service, Cleanliness and Civility

So much civility, but perhaps a lack of warmth?  Or perhaps that word has shifted its meaning in the last 50 years and sounds cold and formal in 2012 rather than correct and reassuring as it might have in 1956.

Small town histories like to soporifically record the details of their institutions: enumerating the number of bricks it took to construct their hospital, or the number of sandwiches buttered at the last Scout jamboree.  Looking back now it is remarkable to think that Patea had a hospital, but it did.  Four wards with beds for 56, and a house for the Hospital Board’s Secretary and another for the engineer.  It still sits there, on Dorset Street, slowly falling apart.  It closed in 1990.

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Patea was a town that almost entirely rested on its freezing works, in a country that rested on Britain’s open door to anything we could slaughter, freeze and ship.  Patea’s works started life in 1888 as a packing and canning plant.  By 1933 the works had been taken over by a British company run by Lord Vestey who probably saved it from closing.  In 1982 it was still a part of the massive Vestey food empire, and was closed (too expensive to upgrade to meet new EEC hygiene standards, apparently).  In a town of around 2,000, the works employed – in the peak of the season – 850 people.  You can imagine the effect this closure had, and it explains everything about the deserted town you drive through now as opposed to the thriving community you can see in the pages of the 1956 anniversary souvenir which put on a week-long party for its 75th birthday.

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What a line up!  The Saturday must have been marvelous.  Floats! Maoris! Marching! Football! Fire hoses! Food!

But there is a curious line in the 100 year anniversary history of Patea that gave me pause:

During the Depression an ill-advised strike had led to the introduction of the chain system and an increasing number of Maoris sought employment at the works.

Perhaps it is just poorly worded, but this sentence seems to suggest that an ill-advised strike led to two other negatives: a chain system, and Maori coming to town.

And they did.  From the 1930s and increasingly after WWII.  In 2002, 20 years after the works closed, the town was 52% Pakeha and 43% Maori.  The man behind Poi E, Dalvanius Prime, was from Patea and Dalvanius’ family were at the works.  He was born in 1948 which means the Prime family were in Patea or nearby Hawera for the 1956 anniversary celebrations and Dalvanius would have been 8 years old.

Born Maui Karawai Parima in Patea, a rural Maori community on the North Island’s west coast, he grew up with seven brothers and four sisters, in conditions he described as rough. His ex-serviceman father Ephraim played several instruments and his mother Josephine was a talented singer. Ephraim wanted to name his son after a fellow soldier, Dalvanius, who had died in wartime Rome. The name did not make the birth certificate, but it stuck.

 The Guardian

Like the difference between the name that didn’t make the birth certificate, and the one that did, it begins to feel to me that the 1956 Patea presented in the anniversary book is not quite Patea.  Official Patea in 1956 was a humming shopping centre brimming with civility and a whitebread council, but there was another Patea going on at the same time.

In a 1984 Listener article on Dalvanius his early life is lightly passed over:

He was born in Patea, one of 11 children.  His father was a freezing worker and a devout Mormon who, regardless of the cost, managed to keep four of his sons at the Mormon college in Hamilton at one time….  Eventually he ran away, convinced that the teachers had it in for him and that his parents didn’t understand.  ”I took out the frustrations I had with my teachers on my father personally – in other words I was a… the word’s, deadshit.”

There is a different, fuller version of this story in an interview done in 2001,

Mr. Prime describes growing up in Patea with seven brothers (two now deceased) and four sisters (one now deceased) as rough.

“You can almost say it was a Once Were Warriors experience. But when my parents finally got their act together they were most loving.”

He says he was trouble as a kid, and once stole a school bus with his cousins and crashed it into a bridge.

He puts a lot of his own upbringing down to the low socio-economic level of Patea and the rawness of life revolving around the freezing works.

“A man is there all day punching skins and comes home and has no time for his wife and family. He goes off to the pub with his mates. We never saw our father until the weekend and that was the case for most people here.”

It was a foregone conclusion the young Dalvanius Prime would end up at the freezing works like his dad, in the days before the freezing works closed down — and the money was fantastic.

But Mr Prime says he always wanted to end up in the entertainment industry, spurred on by the large role music played in his family life, including singing in a church choir and playing the ukulele at family get-togethers.

In his teenage years his dad, “saw the light” and became a Mormon, while his mother turned to the Catholic faith. “It was a very spiritual household.”

Taranaki Daily News, 18 August 2001

Which all seems very different from the anniversary souvenir.  As does this:

“Every weekend we went to the Pa; but I wasn’t interested. I didn’t want to be in the haka; I was into doo-wop groups and Phil Spector. And at school we weren’t allowed to speak the Maori language. Patea was such a redneck town in the 50s .”

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Dalvanius left the town more or less as soon as he could to follow his music dreams.  He came back in 1979 when he heard that his mother was dying of cancer.  It was the event that changed the direction of his life.

“Whenever there was a Maori funeral I couldn’t stand it, because I was so scared of dead people as a child, and we never went to the marae unless one of our relatives had died.  I couldn’t cope with knowing my mother was going, but when she did die it had a very strong effect on my system, because when we had the tangi with her I sat with her for three days and talked to as if she were alive… it brought a new awareness of myself.  Her dying words were all in Maori and I didn’t know what the hell she was saying, which was so sad.  She had always said that I would regret turning my back on my Maori heritage.”

Listener, 1984

I feel that there is something in all of this story that is about more than a man and the death of his mother.  Something about how New Zealand began to change a little bit in the 80s, from the satisfaction and homogeneity of the 1950s to the more diverse, more robust but certainly less satisfied New Zealand we have now.  There is a great irony in the fact that Patea is now known for a Maori song, and it’s Maori monument on the main street.  A fact that no one could have foreseen in 1956.  But I suspect it brings only a little satisfaction. The wrenching of New Zealand into a new shape from the 80s created new and beautiful things, but also new places for desolation to take hold.

19. Drive through Patea (1/3)

“I then stated, long after her and I have left our earthly bodies, the language – via our anthem – will live on from generation to generation.”

Dalvanius Prime to Ngoi Pewhairangi

Mostly I remember songs from the 80s because I liked them, but there are a couple of spots in my memory reserved for musical moments of sheer awfulness.  As much as I’d like to forget these songs they are burned into my mind, forever reminding me that the 80s were not a jet plane to the stars of poppy, glossy loveliness, but a roller coaster ride with some plunging, vomit-inducing lows too.  Agadoo by Black Lace is one example of this awfulness.  Maggie by Foster and Allen is another.

Regardless of what you may (or, far more likely, may not) think of the song Maggie, you will have to concede that it is the kind of music, and the kind of duo, that was unlikely to appeal to an 11 year old boy in 1984.  These days, when there are so many ways to get access to music, it doesn’t really matter if the number one is crap, but in 1984 it was a dire situation.  Let’s list our options in New Zealand in 1984 for getting access to pop videos:

  1. Use the internet (What’s the “internet”?)
  2. Go on a music TV channel (We had two channels in New Zealand.  Channel One and – wait for it – Channel… Two.  Neither of them were music channels)
  3. Watch Radio With Pictures (On at 9.25pm on a Sunday, which was controversially regarded as “too late” for 11 year olds “with school the next day” in my household)
  4. Watch Shazam (Not much music and too much Philip Schofield)
  5. Watch Ready to Roll (bingo!)

There was nothing flash about Ready to Roll and that was its beauty.  It was on once a week on Saturday from 6.00 to 6.30.  It counted down the top twenty for the week, and played a handful of videos in full on the way.  The key was that they always played the number one.  This was great when it was Let’s Dance by David Bowie, but unbearably disappointing when it was week after sodding week of two old codgers from Ireland rabbiting on about some bint called Maggie.

The Listener describes the situation well enough: “The video consists largely of two portly persons standing in a paddock, their lip movements unhappily out of sync with the song.”  As far as I can make out, New Zealand was the only country in the world where Foster and Allen have ever had a number one, and so by June of 1984, Foster and Allen were touring New Zealand.  ”This affable middle-of-the-road duo chose a freezing night for their first New Zealand performance at the Auckland Town Hall….  Allen sings and Foster accompanies him on his newly-acquired electric piano accordion.  His nimble fingers have won many All Ireland accordion playing titles.”

I can tell you what I would have liked to do to Foster’s nimble fingers, and it wasn’t hand him an electric piano accordion.

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So when Poi E replaced Maggie in the number one position there was then the double delight of knowing that you never in your life again would have to hear Maggie, and the sheer awesomeness of one of New Zealand’s greatest songs.

Poi E became the biggest selling single in New Zealand in 1984.  I loved it then, and love it still.  If you were sitting next to me on the couch in my living room in March 1984 at around 6.25pm one Saturday I would have pointed out these bits to you:

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Snort! A dog with a poi?  Come one!  Who doesn’t find a dog with a poi funny?

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The boy in the crowd who is fully into it.  What a cool kid.

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Dalvanius. Except I didn’t know it was Dalvanius then, I just thought it was a funny as guy driving by waving his tongue around.

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The Maori Poi George (thanks Robyn), and a white chick who has been sniffing hair products

And, of course, New Zealand’s most famous breakdancer performing New Zealand’s most famous breakdance sequence of all time.

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While Poi E was number one Michael Jackson’s Thriller was slowly slipping out of the top twenty; another reason Taika Waititi’s re-imagining of Poi E as a kapa haka Thriller tribute in 2010 was spot on.

So, in New Zealand we had Thriller and Poi E at the same time.  I loved both.  Both for their fabulous music, and both for their dance.  In Thriller it was MJ and his posse of zombies, in Poi E it was Joe the breakdancer and his posse of poi.

Kids of the 80s remember Joe the breakdancer more than any other part of the Poi E video.  He wasn’t that awesome when he got down on floor in the school hall later in the video, but he did a mean robot, and his gloves put him in touch with the coolest man on the planet: MJ.  Everything about Joe’s look and his moves suggested a dude who had spent thousands of hours in his Patea bedroom with a Grandmaster Flash tape and a full length mirror honing a talent.  Respect.  For me, seeing Joe demonstrate his craft was a moment of pride and recognition.  Pride because there at number one was a New Zealander doing the unspeakably cool act of “breakdancing”, and recognition that a part of what made it quintessentially kiwi was  that it was a little bit shit.

Time to take a drive through Patea and visit some ghosts.

Can you turn of that f*%king light, Neil?

Song: Heartlight – Neil Diamond (Number 41, 5 December 1982)

Ugh.

Turn on your heartlight?

Ugh.

Movie: E.T. 

Below is a post from 2 September, 2010

***** 

All children are ungrateful at one time.

Perhaps it was my tenth or maybe my eleventh birthday.  On this birthday I had to deal with two disappointments.  Firstly the man who gave me the present decided to go for the gag of wrapping something that was very small so it looked big.  You unwrapped a box, and then another smaller box, and then a big envelope, and then a dozen other layers of papers until you arrived at a tiny handwritten piece of paper that said: “Bike Voucher.”  A voucher for a bike?  That’s got to be pretty awesome right?  Well here was my second disappointment.  What I got was a second-hand, hand me down that looked like this:

Schwinn!  (not)

What I wanted looked like this:

Shwawesome!

I never had a BMX.  It’s hard to put into words how much I wanted one when I was ten.  I had a book about them, a proper book with hundreds of pages that listed all the different types of bike, and all the accessories you could put on them.  The best section of the book though was on BMX bike tracks, and all the different kinds of jumps and features these tracks could have.  I spent hours making up tracks in my head or on pieces of paper.  Of course I wasn’t alone, there was even a movie (BMX Bandits), and all of a sudden councils around NZ found themselves under pressure to build things called BMX tracks.  I suppose that most of these old tracks have been converted into skate parks.  One of the reasons councils in New Zealand came under pressure to dig up their sports grounds, and the reason I so desperately wanted a BMX, was an American movie about an alien stranded on Earth.

***

Seeing E.T. again for the first time since I was 9 or 10 I was surprised to find how good it is.  Twenty-five years of Spielberg’s other movies made me think it mightn’t be.

Most of the way through E.T. there is this slightly detached, uneasy view of suburbia, this feeling that all the internal spaces are dark, pressed in and filled with junk, and that there is a whole world of adults out there who are faceless, and relentless and cold.  Spielberg always got how cool American toys and junk was, but he also got that if you change the camera angle a little all that junk seems eerie and cold and can make you feel lonely.

But that’s what I notice now: what did E.T. mean to me in 1982?

It was a good story, and I can remember being gripped by it.  Gripped is a bit of an understatement.  I can remember struggling manfully with my composure when E.T. “died” and then bursting with joy when he came back to life.  For a ten-year old boy in New Zealand watching E.T. was like also being pressed against the glass of a toy store window wanting to get in.

Let’s just think about all the delectable, exotic treats paraded before the eyes of New Zealand children in the first thirty minutes of the movie:

  • Pizza.  NZ definitely did not have home delivered pizza in 1982.  When pizza did arrive in Wellington it was like an exotic  specialty product that only Pizza Hut could make, and you had to go to their purpose-built stores with the funny roofs (and collect their Return of the Jedi tie-in plastic Coke cups).  Of course the kids in E.T. also had milk in cartons, cans of Coke in the fridge, and M&Ms (that apparently weren’t M&Ms, but everyone thought they were).  In short, American kids had a whole load of exotic, crappy food to eat that wasn’t in New Zealand.
  • Dungeons and Dragons.  Role-playing games were going to become a very important part of my free time, but I feel like when I saw E.T. I had only very vaguely heard about them.
  • Eliot’s toys.  When Eliot is showing E.T. his Stars Wars action figures he shows characters mainly from the bar scene in Star Wars.  I get that this is funny because he is showing an alien other aliens, but at the time I saw this movie I wasn’t laughing at the joke I was ardently desiring the toys.  I ended up with a small pile of them, but I always wanted more.  Of course there is also the talking toy and the wardrobe full of soft toys.  It goes without saying that the talking toy seemed incredible, like some dazzling insight into the future, but even the soft toys looked different, they had that glossy, synthetic plushness that was so unlike the worn, woollen teddy bear you grew up with.
  • Video games.  Eliot’s older brother Michael is wearing a Space Invaders  T-shirt, and in passing he mentions getting a high score on some game.  We are suddenly in a time when Space Invaders and Pac Man were insanely popular and cool.  What kid didn’t want to play these games?

And, of course:

  • BMX bikes.

If you look at the list above we are not talking about the USA really inventing anything, we are talking about them making everything that already existed cooler.  Milk in bottles?  Pah!  Let’s put it in a carton.  Bicycles with bells and plain brown leather seats?  The BMX!  Board games, musty teddy bears and little toy soldiers?  How about video games, and soft toys and action figures with little laser guns?

Watching E.T again I feel like we are watching the mostly British water withdraw from the beaches of New Zealand before the tidal wave of American pop culture comes crashing down on rows of enthusiastic children crowding the shores.  The British movies of 1982 were Gandhi and Chariots of Fire, both movies that I saw that year and really liked.  One is sort of about the end of the British Empire, and the other is nostalgic and elegiac.  American movies look the other way; off into the future.  If they look to the past at all they look to that part that is a boys own adventure, the past when the British Empire was brash, expansive and stomped assertively on the little (brown) guy.  The British got She and King Solomon’s Mines one hundred years earlier as an expression of their unreflective, brash imperialism, and the Americans now had Raiders of the Lost ArkRomancing the Stone, and Top Gun as an expression of theirs.

Which kid would want the old bike with the parcel carrier and little wavy flag on the back, when they had seen the BMX through the shop glass window?  Out with old, and in with the glossy newness of America.

Great Southern Land

One: Great Southern Land – Icehouse (Number 19, 5 December 1982)

I haven’t been to many rock concerts, but I went to see Icehouse.  I should then go on to say that I am Icehouse’s greatest fan.  Not so.  I have no idea why, out of all the bands that came to New Zealand in the 80s and 90s, I ended up at an Icehouse concert at the Michael Fowler Centre, but I did.

It’s not that I don’t like Icehouse.  I do.  In fact I very much like this song, and Hey Little Girl, and a couple of other tracks by them, but it doesn’t make any sense that I went to see them.  It’s  also unfortunate that they were at the Michael Fowler Centre which is a pretty uncool place for a rock band to perform.  In addition I (a) never know what to do at rock concerts, and (b) had terrible, terrible seats.

(a) I don’t know what to do at rock concerts

Actually I do.  I just want to stand there and “feel it”.  The problem is I sense this enormous social pressure to “get into the music”.  This seems to involve waving your arms around and dancing.  I don’t want to do either of those things at a concert.  Nowadays I don’t give a shit and I just stand there and soak it in, but in my youth I did what was expected.  I stood up and rocked out at Icehouse in the Michael Fowler Centre.  Unfortunately the Michael Fowler Centre (as previously mentioned) is pretty lame, with fixed beige seats and not much leg room, so rocking out involves sort of self-consciously bobbing about trying not to get in anyone’s way, and feeling like a dick.

(b) I had terrible, terrible seats

They were up in the stalls, to the side.  I was actually more or less to Iva’s left.  If he had looked left and up a little he would have seen me awkwardly shuffling about and clapping looking a lot like I really just wanted to sit down and didn’t really like Electric Blue anyway. The thing was that my seat was right next to a MASSIVE bank of speakers.  Not only was this very, VERY loud, but it was also only half of the sound –  because the other half of the speakers was across the hall deafening some other poor sod –  so we tended to get a lot of treble guitars and not a lot of grunt.

Which has always sort of made me have mixed feelings about Icehouse.  Which is a shame really because their early singles were great, and Iva was one of the few men in the 80s who actually pulled off the mullet and still looked hot.

Two: Smash Hits

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I went roller blading once.  A group of us hired them from a caravan on the waterfront by Frank Kitts Park.  It was very much what you would expect from putting wheels on your feet: 90% of the time you feel like you’re going to fall over, and 10% of the time you do.  I ended up with somebody else’s girlfriend (she was as crap as me) in a car parking building trying to maintain my sense of dignity with some wheels strapped to my feet while the rest of the group hooned down the corkscrew exit ramp for cars.  Both dignity and having wheels strapped to my feet came to end right after I lost my balance and lunged out at the first thing on hand to keep my balance.  Unfortunately this turned out to be somebody else’s girlfriend’s left breast.

She was jolly good about it, but we did decide to take off the roller blades after that.  The great thing about feet is; you hardly ever feel like you’re going to fall off them.

Bad opening lines for speeches

I really have nothing to add except that there is a jolly good reason the man in the bottom left is by himself.

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